Stage 2: La Storta to Formello — May 22, 2022

18 km — 29^oC and sunny — We met 9 pilgrims on their way to Rome.

(By Laurel)

Now the day we’ve been eagerly anticipating — a full day of hiking through the Italian countryside on the Via Francigena, complete with our backpacks strapped on and our poles in hand!  As for me, however, I was a bit apprehensive about my ability to carry my pack without buckling under the weight of it … would I have to ditch my underarm deodorant and my fourth pair of socks (and maybe more) to lighten my load?!  

Well, I’m happy to report that our day was absolutely splendid!!  The scenery was gorgeous, our path went mostly through shady woods, wild flowers were blooming, birds singing, the sun shining.  Though we’re walking the route “backwards,” it was easy to follow our trail properly, due to good signage and the Pocket Earth app (thanks, Dan P., for that tip!).

We left Rome on a 6:30 a.m. train to La Storta, grabbed a quick cappuccino at a roadside bar upon arrival there, then hit the VF trail proper.  Soon we were in the countryside, which continued all the way to Formello, today’s destination.  Along the route, we met some day-hikers, dog-walkers, horseback riders, several cyclists, a jogger, and nine pilgrims (not all nine in one group, though).  We were getting rather hot and tired by the time we climbed up the hill to Formello, but were duly rewarded as we entered into a lovely old town square with cobblestones, potted bougainvillea, napping cats and, most welcome of all, a fountain (cold potable water — oh, so incredibly refreshing).  After supper, on our stroll, we saw that the museum was open and obtained our passport stamps there.  Before the pandemic, the museum had also operated a recommended pilgrims’ hostel but, unfortunately, it hasn’t yet re-opened.  Formello is an attractive medieval village and we had a good overnight stay at the L’Archetto small apartment.

And I didn’t even have to chuck my deodorant.