Testamonia at Saint Peter’s Basilica: Rome—July 23

 

It was 37oC at St. Peter’s Square when we lined up in the full sun.  Thankfully it only took 15 minutes to get into the shade of the colonnade and to clear security.

The Pope was busy (on a flight to Canada) so the process of getting our testimonia was a bit anticlimactic.  The coat check attendant at St. Peter’s Basilica was responsible for stamping our credentials and verifying our pilgrimage, but was not interested in looking through our passports.

Rather, the attendant presented us with blank documents and allowed us to fill them out under his watchful eyes.  He indicated that we were only the third and fourth walking pilgrims to receive their testimonia that day.  My Latin is a little rusty, but the illustrations of Saint Peter and Saint Paul look unimpressed. Saint Peter: “Sure, but back in the day we did it in sandals!”  Saint Paul: “ Yes, and we didn’t need Pocket Earth to find Rome!!”  

Afterwards we took one last walk through the largest church in the world.

Side Jog: Perugia — July 21 - 22, 2022

Having successfully finished our Via Francigena walking route, we stayed a restful two days in Lucca and then, with our batteries recharged, we proceeded by train in the direction of Rome.  We got off in Siena to pick up again on our search for more of the contrade; after three days happily museum-touring and meandering the hilly cobblestone streets, we jumped on a train again.  This time, we took a side jog to Perugia, the hilltop capital of Umbria.  A block away from our accommodation, we entered a passageway through the huge medieval fortress wall that rings part of the historic city centre — stone steps led us to a well lit underground labyrinth of hallways, vaulted rooms, and nooks and crannies that we explored.  Upon riding an escalator up from there, we exited into the sunshine at a viewpoint with wide vistas out across the scenic hills and countryside of Umbria.  Assisi would be visible on a less hazy day.  Our evening consisted of a stroll along the pedestrian old city piazzas and connecting streets and supper on an outdoor patio.  Tomorrow — Rome!

Left photo:  walking on the outside of the fortress wall

Right photo:  the stone steps inside the wall (looking back down at the entrance)

Three photos above:  exploring inside the fortress wall

Left photo:  exiting at the top of the fortress wall

Right photo:  Umbrian vista from the top of the wall

Two photos above:  and more scenes from up there

Two photos above:  historic city of Perugia

Three photos above:  street scenes in Perugia

Top photo:  sunset as seen from Perugia’s hilltop position

Bottom photo:  early morning view the next day

Stage 46: Valpromaro to Lucca — July 16, 2022

21 kms — 34o C and sunny — We met no new pilgrims today, on their way to Rome. 

(By Jim)

The volunteers at Ostello Valpromaro got up early to make us breakfast and wished us well as we headed down the trail at 6:30.  The two young American pilgrims were soon lost in the distance ahead and Laurel and I settled in for our final day of walking the VF.

The trail was typical Tuscany:  hills, vistas, trees and farms.  After our final descent, the path followed canals and then a river all the way into Lucca.  We were pensive and when we did talk we mostly asked each other reflective questions like:  What was our favourite …stage? …city? …hostel? …meal? …passport stamp? …etc. …or how did the VF compare to the Camino in Spain?

For a while we both commented that we wanted this stage to last as long as possible.  Then the sun brought us to our senses as we sweated and gritted our teeth for the last 4 km.  When the fortified walls of Lucca came into view we perked up and strode through Porta San Donato like conquering heroes!  Okay, that’s what it felt like!  We actually collapsed on a marble park bench beside a water tap, just inside the walls, and gave each other a high five.  We made it to “here” and “here” was finally the end!

Our VF was unconventional for sure:  we began backwards, reversed, and finished in the middle at Lucca.  It was also challenging, beautiful, and amazing and, today, as we walked into Lucca for the second time, it has come to its conclusion. 

Our VF By the Numbers:

Total walking days: 46

Total distance between Great Saint Bernard Pass and Rome:  1,021 km

Total ascent:  22,657 m (22.7km)

Total descent:  25,152 m (25.2 km)

Number of pilgrims met:  429

Average daily temperature:  33o C

Blisters:  5 (Jim—2; Laurel—3)

Pairs of shoes:  3 (Jim—1; Laurel—2)

Walking poles:  5 (Jim—1; Laurel—4)

Number of photos taken:  4,959

Memories:  ♾️

Camila and Maria, the Ostello volunteers seeing us off in the morning.

Tuscan hills.

Tuscan views.

Lucca never looked so good.  We found a shady bench to rehydrate and celebrate our journey’s end.

Rehydrated and composed, we posed for a selfie.

Stage 45: Pietrasanta to Valpromaro — July 15, 2022

21 kms — 32o C and humid/sunny — We met 2 new pilgrims today, on their way to Rome. 

(By Laurel)

Our second-last stage ….

Despite my lack of energy today, and a couple of medium hills to talk myself into surmounting, as well as a final few kms along a busy highway into Valpromaro, Jim and I had a good walk.  The VF route in this section turns away from the sea and steers the pilgrim inland, through green hills traversed mostly on shaded trails.  Our stage-end for today is Valpromaro, a small village of about 130 people and picturesquely composed of only one street with snuggly-placed stone houses lining both sides.

Our last night staying at a hostel ….

As Valpromaro is such a small place, I was somewhat apprehensive about spending the night here.  For example, I wondered if we’d have difficulty finding something to eat at supper time.  Well, I certainly needn’t have worried!  The hostel is run by volunteers and they took wonderful care of us!  Camilla and her co-hospitaleros welcomed us into their homey ostello and cooked a homemade supper, which we ate as a group on the back patio of the hostel.  Along with ourselves, there were two other pilgrims staying there — Evan and Ezra, young university students from Portland, Oregon.  Stefano is a local gardener who had donated zucchini and potatoes to the hostel, and which were on our menu; he also joined our supper group.  So we all enjoyed a great communal meal and lovely conversation together!  One for the memory album!  Jim and I had a restful sleep with a cool breeze, the peal of hourly church bells, and the sound of croaking frogs wafting into our bedroom.  We both agree that Valpromaro is the very best VF hostel!

It was just the perfect place for our last night on the Via Francigena! 

Top left photo:  leaving Pietrasanta (big picture frame)

Top photo:  a last view of the sea

Bottom photo:  entering a path through a thicket of bamboo

Three photos above:  welcome signs at the Valpromaro Hostel

Top photo:  hostel entrance (Valpromaro)

Bottom photo:  laundry area at the back of the hostel

Photo below:  just finished eating our yummy communal supper

Stage 44: Massa to Pietrasanta— July 14, 2022

19 kms — 33o C and humid/sunny — We saw 5 new pilgrims today, on their way to Rome. 

(By Jim)

Today was a day made for my sister Betty.  A day filled with beautiful views but no goat paths or sheer cliffs and most of all a day filled with art!

We left the hostel at the same time as “Old Diego,” a pilgrim we have crossed paths with for the past week.  His name is actually Vincenzo, but that’s another story.  Old Diego walks and talks fast and soon we were alone on the urban trail heading up.  After an hour we transitioned to a small asphalt road that wended its way through the trees to the top of our biggest climb for the day affording us spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea and urban sprawl that embraces it.

It was on this slope that I started to notice art installations along the way.  Pictures, sculptures and mosaics appeared with a much higher frequency than any other stage along the VF.  The closer we approached to Pietrasanta, the greater the frequency.  By the time we arrived at Ostello San Francesco, we were in the midst of an open air museum of art.  Streets, parks and piazzas all had impressive sculptures in marble, bronze or plaster.  They drew our attention away from the architectural art we have consistently admired in the medieval churches.  One church, however, did catch our eye.  Although the Church of Misericordia was built in the 13th century, it was its very unusual 21st century frescos depicting heaven and hell that drew our attention.

The hostel was in an old Franciscan Monastery and run by volunteers.  After a relaxing day of wandering through the exhibits, we dined alfresco at a small cafeteria and returned to our cloistered accommodation.  We missed you today Sis!

An early start with “Old Diego” and some urban hills.

The VF gave us good views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Art along the VF on the trail to Pietrasanta.

The Church of San Francesco and cloistered Ostello.

Sculptures were everywhere in Pietrasanta.

Top: Gates of Heaven and Gates of Hell, by Colombian artist Fernando  Botero (1993).  Located in the Church of Misericordia.  Note that Mother Theresa made it to Heaven, but Hitler didn’t.

Bottom: Pietrasanta Duomo

Pietrasanta art.

Pietrasanta art.

Pietrasanta art.

Pietrasanta art.