Stage 41: Pontremoli to Filetto — July 10, 2022

19 kms — 30o C and sunny — We saw no new pilgrims today, on their way to Rome. 

(By Jim)

Yesterday’s walk had taken its toll so when we awoke at Ostello Santa Lorenzo, we decided to hit the snooze button, spend the morning touring Pontremoli, and use the train to help us get closer to our destination.

Pontremoli was a wonder to explore — bridges, churches, piazzas, and a castle overlooking it all.  We started out by tracking down Caffe Degli Svizzeli to try a local pastry called “Amor” (marscapone and nuts between two crisp wafers).  The Duomo was next, where a local woman explained to us that the cloak adorning the statue of Mary was a 400 year old garment.  Later we meandered the narrow shaded streets until we were under the castle where an elevator saved us the thousand-odd steps of walking to the top.  From the castle we got a bird’s-eye view of Pontremoli.

Back in the city center, we found a small family-run Osteria to have lunch.  They let us in early and offered us a special meal that they have been serving visitors since 1948:  fish, spinach pie, and fried pumpkin flowers, washed down with a glass of local wine.  The husband and wife were both interested in our assessments of the meal and we didn’t disappoint them.

While drinking an espresso, I purchased two train tickets to Villafranca, the closest train station to our prepaid accommodation in Filetto.  On our way to the train station, Laurel commented that although Ostello Santa Lorenzo was beside the railway tracks she had never heard a train all night.  When we arrived at the train station all was explained as we learned that the Tren-Italia employees were on a one-day strike.  A bartender in the railway bar called us a taxi and 15 minutes later the driver dropped us off in Villafranca. Soon we were walking in the blazing sun towards the VF.  Our destination was Filetto, a small, walled medieval village.  When we entered through the stone gate the town was all set up for an antique flea market with stalls lining the Main Street and filling the church square.

Our accommodation was a small apartment overlooking the town sports field where a father-son soccer tournament kept us entertained until the church bells struck 7:00 p.m.

The bridges of Pontremoli.

Three things Pontremoli is famous for: Birthplace of Pinocchio author, Carlo Collodi, Bianca Orio (a drink with a secret recipe) and Amora (a pastry to fall in love with).  Note: it turns out that Carlo Collodi was not born here.  It turns out that the locals are just pretty good liars!

Pontremoli Duomo has a 400 year old cloak.

Pontremoli Castle and view.