Via Francigena 2022: Stage 36: Fidenza to Cella

19 km — 28^oC and sunny — We saw 4 new pilgrims today.

(By Laurel)

Last night around 7 pm when Jim and I set out for the grocery store in Fidenza to pick up provisions for supper and breakfast, the air was hot and the sky was filled with heavy grey clouds. Just as we reached the store, a wind began whipping the trees. We quickly scooted into the building and soon were focused on our grocery list. Half an hour later, as we paid for our purchases, we could see that it was now pouring rain! Along with several other customers, we waited until the rain slowed down and then ventured out. As we made our way back to our accommodation, we were astounded to see lots of garbage, leaves, and tree branches strewn over the streets — the wind must have blown gale-force for the short time we were grocery-shopping. While in the store, we’d been blissfully unaware.

Hills again! We are back in the hills. Just out of Fidenza this morning, we started a gentle climb or two and, from those vantage points, could see way out over the flat wide Po Valley stretching behind us now to the far hazy blue horizon. Immediately around us were pretty smooth-topped hills with farm buildings and crops (mostly hay and forage; a few fruit trees and grapevines), as well as the occasional church. The sun was shining from a clear blue sky, but the temperature was below 30 degrees, and much of the trail had shade. The hills present a welcome change of scenery and hiking experience — however, not too onerous. As we get into the Apennines proper, I might be changing my tune, but hopefully this first gentler day or two will limber up my legs well enough to meet that challenge.

We reached the hamlet of Cella (population 50) and were dismayed to find that the only restaurant/bar is closed on Tuesday — and today is Tuesday! So, instead, lunch was eaten in a shady park and consisted of a can of tuna with baked beans (yes, that’s an actual product) and apples, which we had carried with us. We relaxed in the park for a while, until it was time to make our way to the hostel, Comunita di Betania, a km out of town.

Betania is a community of Franciscan friars and nuns living in a beautiful new building with a circular design and a grassy open courtyard in the centre — this, along with their country setting up on a hill looking out over the Po Valley, and, especially, their gracious welcome when we appeared at their gate provided us with a relaxed, peaceful stay. The flute music and singing during vespers, mass and mealtimes were lovely. We enjoyed a simple communal lunch (to top-up our tuna from the park) and supper with the friars, nuns, and a few others who were there on retreat. Jim and I were the only VF pilgrims there this night.