29 km — 36oC and sunny — We saw no new pilgrims today.
(By Laurel)
Hot. That’s this day in summary, at the risk of sounding like a stuck record — as a walker, it’s impossible not to have the weather conditions top of mind. When we retired and therefore should have any month available for traveling, I vowed that we would NOT do a walking holiday in Europe during sweltering July and, yet, here we are!!
We got up, as usual, nice and early. We could hear the three young cyclists sleeping soundly as we departed the hostel. Our path intercepted the VF along a busy stretch of highway for a number of kms (one of the roads which other pilgrims had warned us about, due to speeding unyielding traffic — it lived up to its reputation), then branched off onto quiet country roads and paths. Since crossing the Po River, the rice paddies have disappeared altogether and corn fields have markedly diminished; now we pass acres of onions, tomatoes, sunflowers, sorghum and forage crops. On the horizon, the beginning of the Apennines is visible — that will be our next major area to traverse. While resting and drinking water at a rare shaded roadside spot, we heard a “bonjour” behind us and looked up to see the Three Musketeers. Today was the last day of walking for the French trio, as they’ll carry on with their VF next year. It was a slog to reach Fiorenzuola, but we all made it to the hostel door at 1:30. Alas! The hostel didn’t open until 4:00 p.m.! Jim and I found a cafe with AC and then a shady park to wait in, before re-presenting ourselves at the hostel at two minutes to four.
And another sunrise on the VF
Heading for the hills — the beginning of the Apennines are appearing in front of us (both photos above)
Bottom photo above: a field of sorghum
Top photo: a country church we passed
Bottom photo: a farm complex
Couldn’t resist picking one tomato (it was tasty)
Top photo: following behind the Three Musketeers on the last stretch to Fiorenzuola (notice that I availed every bit of shade that was along the trail!)
Bottom left: signing in at the hostel
Bottom right: side door of the cathedral in Fiorenzuola — the hostel was just around the corner
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