Via Francigena 2022: Stage 23: Aosta to Fenis

18 km — 32^oC and sunny — We met no more pilgrims on their way to Rome.

(By Jim)

The road is steep, but I stay calm,

My legs are soothed with Tiger Balm.

Its scent is strong, but I can’t tell,

Laurel calls it “old man smell”!

We consulted our legs this morning and they unanimously voted to take the flatter bike route option from Aosta to Fenis. The path was framed by mountains on both sides, with the Dora Baltea River on the left and a rotation of sports fields, pastures, parks, and villages on the right.

As we trod by Saint Marcel we noticed signs announcing that the Gran Festa del Prosciutto was in full swing and as we passed the fair grounds we could see volunteers setting up for the day. It was only 10:00 but we made a detour for what we hoped would be our second breakfast. The Festa wasn’t exactly open to the public yet but we slipped in past an inattentive security team who seemed to be quality control testing the beer on tap. In a food tent, Laurel managed to convey that we were hungry and thirsty Canadian pilgrims walking the VF. No problemo, soon we were each presented with a plate of shaved ham, young mozzarella cheese, bread sticks and a bottle of water (we declined the beer). One volunteer was skeptical of our story and kept insisting that the VF was on the other side of the river in the hills. Yes, I thought that is true, but the ham festival is on this side! We were still licking our lips 30 minutes later when we rejoined the cycle VF.

Fenis is famous to two things: its Fontina cheese and its castle. As it was Sunday, the cheese shops were closed, however the castle was a popular family spot. We walked around the 14th century stone fortress, took some pictures, then ate a snack in the shade of the castle keep and had a nap until the sun found us and encouraged us to move. We relocated to the shady Tzante de Bouva park where boisterous family-focused activity surrounded us. Laurel wrote her blog, while I explored. I discovered two refreshing finds of note: 1. a water fountain that dispensed acqua frizzante (fizzy water) and 2. a 24-hour vending machine that sold farm-fresh milk products. We tried the panna cotta and Crème caramel, but it also sold yogurt, chocolate pudding, ricotta cheese, buffalo cheese and, of course, milk.

Our accommodation was finally ready so we showered and rested until the evening cooled off and the smell of pizza drew us to a small shop. A quiet walk around the castle, then a shared gelato to enjoy on our trek back up to our bed.