18 km — 31oC and sunny — We met 5 more pilgrims on their way to Rome.
(By Laurel)
When we briefly passed through Florence on the train yesterday, I had a flashback to Art History from my first-year studies at the U. of S. which reminded me of Michelangelo, whose masterpiece carving of “David” is housed in the city. Though it would have been nice to spend a day or two in Florence viewing art, it wasn’t to be at this time. As the train clicked along, I found myself wondering if Michelangelo had ever walked on the Via Francigena. He certainly could have, because he lived about 500 years after Archbishop Sigeric had made his journey and the pilgrimage route was well established by the late 1400’s-1500’s when Michelangelo lived and worked in Florence, other parts of Tuscany, and Rome. If, indeed, Michelangelo did walk the VF, I wonder if he experienced some of the same “agonies and ecstasies” that we do today as we travel along?
> Sunrise revealing the green countryside, with mist in the valleys ….ecstasy
> Early morning birdsong providing a cheery soundtrack as we walk ….ecstasy
> Vistas of rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, fields, farms ….ecstasy
> Steep uphill climb, deep descent down the slope on the other side ….agony
> Another big hill, right after the first one ….agony
> Picturesque medieval villages, narrow winding cobblestone streets ….ecstasy
> Ancient churches, filled with works of art done by masters of every age ….ecstasy
> Hot sun, no shade, no clouds, a few more kilometers to go ….agony
> A shady path through the woods ….ecstasy
> A drink of cold water, a warm shower, tasty food, and a good sleep ….ecstasy
> Aching muscles, sore feet, blisters ….agony
> Hostels; a great walking partner, helpful friendly Italians and fellow pilgrims ….ecstasy
Except for a short 1 km section, the route from Altopascio to Lucca is urban — highways, streets, sidewalks. We stayed faithful to the VF until we reached the Tassignano train station, where we hopped on the train and leap-frogged the final 6 km to Lucca. Good choice; we wandered the beautiful streets of Lucca instead and still clocked 21 km for the day.
And so we’ve now finished the route covered by the first guide book! We’re currently studying the second book to lay out our plans for the next section.
Top: the little bit of green countryside on today’s route
Bottom: getting across a roundabout
Coffee/snack break
Top: the medieval city walls of Lucca
Bottom: walking through the wall and about to enter the old city
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