Tuesday, June 7, 2022

Stage 15: Siena to Monteriggioni — June 7, 2022

21 km — 29oC and partly cloudy — We met 27 more pilgrims on their way to Rome.

(By Jim)


Another beautiful morning greeted us as we said a long goodbye to Siena and walked her labyrinth one final time exiting through Porta Pispini.  A city bus transported us to via Dante, a few blocks from the VF near the edge of the city, where we adjusted our poles, got our bearings and set off for Monteriggioni.


I enjoyed Siena, as did Laurel.  Exploring the contrades had become a combination scavenger hunt—mystery that we had fun solving.  We didn’t come close to finishing, so we will have to return.  In an effort to blend in, I bought a straw hat … as did every other North American tourist, I might note.  Now no one will confuse me with the Germans.  


We lightened our packs in Siena by mailing home 6.2 pounds of gear (rain pants, fleece, surplus clothes and one headlamp).  The weight loss was noticeable and we both enjoyed our lighter, roomier packs today.


The VF began as a tar road but after 2 km turned into a forested trail well shaded by chestnut and oak trees.  A fungi hunter crossed our path searching for the prized porcini mushroom.  He was proud of his find and posed for a picture.  Now and then the trail would leave the woods to transect fields of canola and sunflower (neither in bloom at this time).


We stopped for a cold drink at a pilgrim’s rest in medieval La Villa, then pushed on to beat the building heat.  At one point, Laurel channeled Lara Croft again, insisting on a shadier short cut to the VF.  It turned out to be a shorter route alright — through some fields in the blazing sun, past a farmer wielding a hand sickle, finishing with a game of jump the electric fence.  All in all a more interesting route to the one Sigeric planned a thousand years ago!


It was after 11:00 and still no sign of Monteriggioni.  I was beginning to wonder how you hide a 12th century medieval fortified village when the trail broke out of the trees to reveal our destination perched on a hill before us.  We hobbled into town, parched, and sat down at the first restaurant that wasn’t serving pizza or gelato.  After what turned out to be a very expensive meal (Pro Tip: check out the prices as well as the food, before sitting down), we walked across Piazza Roma to our Ostello, beside Santa Maria Church.  Only five of us here tonight so Laurel and I get a room to ourselves.


After a long siesta, we explored the wonderful village with the throngs of tourists and Assassins Creed gamers that come here daily.  Then a glass of wine before an early bedtime.


The trail was shady, perfect for walking and hunting porcini mushrooms.


Crops of the day included sunflower and canola.

Obelisk that marks the deep hole entrance to a 2km underground canal built in the 1700s.

Near La Villa

Heading back into the shady trees.

Monteriggionie came into view.


Our Ostello and Santa Maria Church.

Surveying tomorrow’s path.

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