24 km — 28oC and sunny — We met 21 pilgrims on their way to Rome.
(By Jim)
We slept well, got an early start and we were surprised to see many coffee bars opening up as we left town at 6:40 a.m. We resumed the VF trail back at the Etruscan tombs and were soon walking under a cool, quiet canopy of beech trees that followed a stream through the hills towards Vetralla. Periodically the trail would emerge between hazelnut and olive groves, then return to the peaceful shade. This was our perfect trail and it continued for 6 km.
All good things eventually end and our trail joined a dirt road to first descend and then steeply ascend to the picturesque town of Capranica. Dirt road gave way to pavement, stone steps and cobble stones as we climbed the ancient fortifications and entered through its now-unguarded porticos. We stopped for coffee beside the town hall, where we got a stamp for our pilgrim passports.
Leaving Capranica, the trail meandered through more hazelnut and olive groves that provided periodic respite from the now blazing sun. Near the mid-point of our day in the middle of an olive orchard, we found ourselves walking among the rubble and ruins of three towers. Known collectively as the towers of Orlando, two are 1st century Roman and the third was a 10th century bell tower of a Benedictine church.
Just as the sun and heat was taking its toll, the trail returned to shaded forest and guided us all the way to Vetralla-Cura, our stop for the day at Casa Francigena. Showers and siesta came in quick succession, after which we bought some supples and enjoyed a refreshing salad and Prosecco, that our host had thoughtfully left us. Just as the Camino in Spain, the Via provides!
No comments:
Post a Comment